A LONG trip to Poland!

This is a pretty long post, so I'm going to split it in half. I'll post Part I now, and Part II in a few days... now, on to our story!

We didn't have any plans for Thanksgiving (or, as they call it in Germany... Thursday), so we decided to make a long weekend (plus an extra week) of it and take a long trip. Perhaps too long, you can be the judge.

Gonna try something new with this entry. I've created a map to go along with our travels. Click this link if you're interested, and it *should* show you where we went, so you can follow along.

One country we haven't gone to yet is Poland. I've been a little leery of getting that close to a warzone, especially with incursions of Polish airspace by the Russians happening pretty regularly, but the boss finally talked me into visiting.

Thursday evening, we took the subway to the airport and flew from Frankfurt to Warsaw. We'd researched the bus/tram system there a bit, and were planning on using it to get around the city, but figured we'd Uber from the airport to the hotel. 

Our research told us nothing at all about how Uber works at the Warsaw airport. There was a line for Ubers. A line about 45 minutes long. You'd go into the app and book your trip, then get into the line. Once you got to the front of the line, the next Uber would come by to pick you up, and you had to give him a PIN number. When he put that PIN number into his Uber app, it would tell him where he was going. 

If we fly into Warsaw again, we'll figure out a better way to get from the airport to the hotel. Bolt had a similar system, but the line was much shorter.

We didn't have many real items on our agenda while we were in Warsaw, so while we were at the hotel the first night, the family travel coordinator found a fun activity for the next day. You'll have to be patient for a moment before I tell you about it though! The activity wasn't until the early afternoon, but we headed in that direction a bit early and stopped at a museum on the way.

The museum was called POLIN: Museum of the History of Polish Jews. Unfortunately, we had less time to spend there than we wanted, but the museum did a great job of talking about Jews in Poland throughout history. Everyone's heard about the Nazi attacks on (and following occupation of) Poland in 1939 (the start of WWII), but a large portion of the museum (that we were able to go through due to time constraints) talked about... I've puzzled over another phrase to use, but I can't come up with one... Jews in Poland throughout history. It's right there in the name of the museum people - I honestly don't know what you're expecting from me!

The monument outside the POLIN Museum

Evidently, Jews have lived in (the area that became known as) Poland since at least the year 966. For centuries, Poland was home to the largest and most significant community of Jews in the world - I didn't know that before, and now I do. Since you've gone out of your way to read this, now you know it too. See? We're learning stuff together! You're welcome.

After rushing through the museum, we walked a couple of blocks to our activity... one thing Poland is known for is pierogies. That's right, we went to a pierogi making class to learn to make pierogies. For those who aren't familiar with pierogies, they're basically Polish dumplings. You can fill them with whatever you'd like (according to our instructor, usually leftovers) and then drop them into boiling water until they float. 

Interestingly enough, the boss came up with this idea. Y'all know I do the majority of the cooking in the house, right? Anyone wanna guess what the boss is expecting me to do with this newly acquired knowledge? 

It was actually a pretty cool class. There were 8 of us in the class - four pairs of two people. Each group was given a station with everything that we needed, with the stations arranged into a horseshoe shape, with the instructor in the middle, walking around and helping everyone.

Our setup before we got started

We were provided with one of three kinds of fillings: chicken (with some veggies and chickpeas mixed in), vegetarian (potato with cheese and some other veggies), and vegan (lentils, chickpeas, and some other stuff I don't remember). Our pair and one other pair were given the chicken mixture. A quick aside about the other "chicken pair": they were a couple, a younger (probably early 20's) Polish girl and an American "meathead" kind of character. I was immediately expecting to hate this guy - he originally came across as the kind of muscle-bound freak that everyone hates to be around, but I was pleasantly surprised by how affable and friendly he was. Seemed like a genuinely nice guy. Be that as it may... back to the story.

We were given the filling ingredients in a bowl, and we seasoned it with salt and pepper, then stirred and smooshed the hell out of it to mash it into smaller pieces. Then we set it aside and started on the dough. We mixed flour with salt, water, and oil, then kneaded it all together and let it set for a few minutes to allow the gluten to form. Then we divided our dough in half and started rolling one half of it out. Once we got it to the right general thickness, we cut it up with a circular cutter and she taught us a few different ways to crimp the edges. We repeated it with the other half of the dough and ended up with a half size baking sheet covered with pierogies (each pair of people had their own sheet). 

Your follically challenged narrator, mixing the pierogi dough

After we'd finished making all the pierogies, we stood around and talked while our instructor cooked them, then we sat down to eat. The pierogies came out in batches, one of the team's trays per batch, so we all got to try each different kind.

Our "beautiful" creations, with a few different crimping styles

Our instructor, cooking one of the batches of pierogis

As an aside, the flour that we'd been given had been color coded with spices - it was supposed to indicate later which type was which. The meat ones had a teaspoon or so of paprika in it, and the vegetarian ones had some dill, and the final product was supposed to be tinted, with the vegan ones having no tint. I didn't see any difference in color between the meat ones and the vegan ones, perhaps they needed more paprika to really make a difference in the color. As it ended up, the color coding wasn't really necessary, as each batch was passed around individually in turn, and we all ate all of the different types anyway.

So, it turns out... the process for making pierogies is pretty simple - my sous chef even proved that you don't have to be a chef or cook to make them properly. To make them *well*, perhaps you do... but it was a pretty easy process that I can see going through at home occasionally.

After pierogies, we walked for a little while to get to the location of the "Christmas Market."

A monument we stumbled across while walking around Warsaw

One of the main reasons that we wanted to visit Poland (this time of year) is for the World Renowned Christmas Markets. Imagine our disappointment to see Warsaw's entry into the Holiday Season, at least the one right outside of Old Town. It was just a single line of stalls. This may have some significance to my Christmas Market Peeps out there, but... y'all, gluhwein was only available in cardboard cups. Y'all should know by now what kind of a freak I am about Gluhwein Mugs. I was bummed.

After that letdown, we wandered away and stopped to warm up in (supposedly) the "Oldest Coffee Shop" in Warsaw. We had hot chocolate and shared a pastry. Afterwards, we wandered around a bit more, then took a tram back toward the hotel. To help us remember what tram stop to get off at, I'll admit we "Americanized" the name of the stop to: "Hala Microwave." The name of the stop was actually Hala Mirowska, and it turns out there's a mall right there called (ironically enough) Hala Miroska... and y'all should know by now how much I love shopping malls... so of course we had to go in!

We stocked up on some drinks and snacks to carry along with us on the remainder of our trip, then walked back to the hotel.

Next morning, we headed out and walked over to the Warsaw Uprising Museum. I had a lot of hopes for this museum... at first. We had to wait outside to get in (which was fine), then checked our coats at the coatroom.

A quick aside about the weather while we were there. It fluctuated between cold and bitterly cold for our whole trip. There was little to no precipitation while we were there - I think it might have sprinkled on us twice during the whole trip. Y'all, just to be clear - I wore pants for the whole trip. We took all of our "Extreme Cold Weather Gear" that we purchased for our Arctic Circle trip. We were fine, as far as temperature goes. In fact, one (fleece lined) pair of pants that I took was too hot to wear. Honestly, I probably would have been fine in shorts for about 60% of the time, but I chose to fit in instead. So... everywhere we went, we both had on our big, thick, subzero coats - and had to check them at the coat check whenever one was available. And now, back to our narrative...

We rented audio guides, and started through the museum. I wanted to like this museum, and for the first part, I did. It was devoted to the Polish Uprising of 1944, against the German Occupation. The first level of the museum was laid out quite well, with the exhibits in a logical order. When it came time to go up to the second floor, that's where we both felt it lost the narrative a bit. 

On the first floor, there was a designated flow - start in this section, naturally move on to the next. When you got up to the second floor though, there were no directions as to which way we were supposed to go, and whichever way you headed it felt like you'd missed a part of it, as the story that they were attempting to tell would have made more sense from a chronological perspective. It seemed that the second floor is where they just started throwing things at you. For instance, I ended up heading into a section dedicated to the "Silent Unseen," Polish Special Forces paratroopers trained in insurgency tactics by the British. Fascinating story... let me touch on them for a moment:

2,613 Polish Army soldiers volunteered for the training. Only 606 of them finished the training, and only 316 of those ended up parachuting back into Poland. These soldiers were sent back to form and feed the insurgency, fighting the occupying Germans from within the country. Well worth reading of their exploits... but then...

It continued the story of the legacy of the Silent Unseen, and got into details about GROM, Poland's elite Special Forces unit, and their exploits during missions in Afghanistan and Iraq in the 2000s and 2010s. Still an interesting story, but completely halts the flow of the narrative that the rest of the museum is dedicated to. 

After we left there, we took the city metro across town to the Copernicus Museum, but I have to take a quick break and talk about the city, and what we didn't appreciate about it.

Most cities that we've visited over here have a distinct "downtown" area, where all of the museums and tourist sites are clustered in the same general area. Warsaw doesn't. Everything is much more spread out, and it's not very convenient to walk across the whole city visiting all of the places you want to see. Our hotel was pretty centrally located, but to visit any museum or tourist area, it was quite a hike in a specific direction... at which point, we were too far away from the rest of the museums or tourist sites to walk to those. We'd have to walk (pretty much) right back through the same neighborhood as the hotel, and when it's taking a half hour plus to walk to these places from the hotel... we just didn't like the layout much. 

Anyway, we got off the metro and headed to the Copernicus Museum, and there was a line for the coat check room, that looked to be about a half hour long. I waited in that line while the boss went over to look at buying tickets, and it turns out that they sell tickets based on your entry time. The next entry that they were selling tickets for was about an hour and a half later, and we decided that it wasn't worth it to us to wait that long.

There was a little "mall" across the street - I put the word mall in quotes because it wasn't what I'd consider to be a standard mall. It used to be a power station, now its name is "Elektrownia Powiśle." The power plan dates back to 1904, now it's an eclectic (read: "artsy") collection of stores with an extensive food hall, where we ate lunch.

The power plant mall

Once we were done at the power plant mall, we hopped on a bus to another museum, the Museum of Life Under Communism. It's a little privately owned museum that's situated above a KFC in one of the shopping districts. They had quite a selection of goods that you'd typically find in stores back then, with a couple of different rooms set up to give you the feeling of what living conditions were like back then. I'd been looking forward to this one, and I found it quite interesting, gave me a good perspective that I hadn't seen before on daily life during Communism.

This woman was evidently quite excited to live under a communist regime,
as she poses with one month's ration of food

Numbers such as these were used by the communists to try to convince
the populace that they were better off than they'd been prior

We took a tram to another Christmas Market... turns out, this is the main Christmas Market of Warsaw. Much bigger than the other, but... still not impressed, to be honest. This one used paper cups too. It was overcrowded, and the stalls were all grouped together weird - the spaces in front of the merchandise booths were all overfilled by the people waiting at the food lines. Maybe I'm just spoiled by how German markets are run, but this one just felt like it was put together wrong.

The best thing to come out of this market was my exposure to an cherry vodka liqueur, made by a company called Wiśniewski. The booth caught my eye because the guy had a big bowl filled with cherries, and he'd drop a handful of cherries into each cup of what he was serving. I bought one, and immediately fell in love with this stuff. Here's what their web site says (shamelessly copied):

Wiśniewski is a ruby red, uniquely tasting craft spirit accompanied by a bunch of carefully selected aromatic, succulent, whole cherries which matured slowly in Polish orchards. Every drop of Wiśniewski is crafted in a traditional way - without haste but with passion and care. We chose a winemaker’s approach to produce small batches of this cherry cordial. Once distilled, it is aged in oak, naturally, to develop a bolder expression.

Pay no attention to the giddy smile on my face! You can see the bowl of cherries
on the far side of the booth

I enjoyed this stuff enough that once we got back to the room, I looked up where I could buy some of this, and one of their stores was about 2 blocks away from the hotel. I talked the boss into taking a late night walk over there, and discovered the coolest little food hall area, surrounded by bars. If we'd discovered this before, we'd probably have eaten here a couple of times. Just a cool feeling. I bought a bottle of the stuff to bring back to Germany, and the wife had a shot of the liqueur that was served in a chocolate shot glass.

I couldn't find an equivalent product at Total Wine, but for my readers in the Austin area, it looks like a similar product might be available at Specs... If anyone buys some of this, you have to tell me how it tastes, then you can come over here and try some of mine and give me a comparison.

We carried the bottle back to the room and settled in for the night... more traveling tomorrow!

The next morning started off with breakfast, then we checked out and walked to the train station. Next station: Gdańsk... or as Germans call it, Danzig (we'll get back to that in a moment). 

There's a exclave of Russia on the Baltic Sea... coming down the coast from St. Petersburg, you encounter Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, then Poland, with the exception of a little exclave of Russia called Kaliningrad Oblast between Poland and Lithuania. Gdańsk is about 80 miles (as the drone flies) from that exclave. So... I've spent more than three years avoiding Poland because it's too close to Russia, and now here we find ourselves, right next door.

Gdańsk is Poland's main port city, located in the north of the country, on the Baltic Sea. It was a bit colder than Warsaw, more of a biting cold. We walked from the train station to the hotel, it was about a 15-20 minute walk, not too bad. Our hotel was right in the middle of the tourist area of the city... ironically enough, immediately next door to the hotel was a Wiśniewski store/bar. More ironically, I didn't go into the place the entire time we were there. No reason, just didn't make it in for some reason.

This pic is out of order - we actually saw this after our walking tour,
but it fit here perfectly in the narrative. 

We got all checked in and walked over to the Christmas Market, and for all of our disappointment with Warsaw's Christmas Market, Gdańsk made up for it. Finally, a real Christmas Market, and finally real Christmas Mugs!

On the way over, we found a little inside section of the market with craft booths, we explored in there first, then headed back out to the real market. After we explored for a while, our hunger got the best of us, so we headed back to a booth we'd seen earlier, where they make pasta in a big wheel of cheese and served the boss's favorite variety: cacio e' pepe. It's an Italian dish with just pasta, Pecorino cheese, and pepper. As a way for this booth to catch the attention of passersby, they do a flourish as they hand your pasta over to you - they throw handfuls of cheese into your bowl after they've handed it to you, invariably getting grated cheese all over you and anyone nearby.

I got a currywurst at a nearby booth, and no, they didn't squirt ketchup at me when they gave it to me.

We bought two mugs and kept wandering the streets, eventually finding a big mall. It being Sunday night, the stores in the mall were closed, but the mall itself was open, and the mall was a little over the top, with a water feature running through it. 

If you haven't noticed, the family photographer
seems to be obsessed with reflections.

See?

We wandered back to the hotel, checking out more squares and booths on the way back. Once we'd warmed up a bit, we headed out to dinner, to a tapas restaurant across the street from the hotel. We didn't end up getting tapas though, we each ordered Mexican food off the menu instead; I had some tamales, and the boss had three street tacos. 

The next morning, we met up with our guide at 10:30 for a free walking tour. He talked a lot about the history of Gdańsk, and showed us the locations of some of the many gates that used to be used to control access to the city, and detailed the different classes of people who had access to each area (nobles in the inner area, for example). 

He explained that some of the architecture of the city was designed by Dutch architects, and because of that (and the similar taxation structure), that's why a lot of the building looked Dutch, quite narrow but extending back quite a ways (owners were taxed on the width of their building, not the square footage or height). 

Interestingly enough (to me, so now you get to read about it!), Daniel Gabriel Fahrenheit was born in Gdańsk; not only did he come up with the temperature scale which bears his name, he also invented the mercury thermometer that us old farts are all familiar with. There's a monument to him in one of the town squares.

The big mercury thermometer / monument to Daniel Gabriel Fahrenheit

Our tour ended at the old Post Office... which deserves its own section. Please bear with me, I've gotta cover some history to put this all in perspective.

Following WWI, the Free City of Danzig was created by the Versailles Treaty (the treaty which ended the war). This city/state encompassed all of the city of Gdańsk, and around 200 communities nearby. The city was created under the protection and oversight of the League of Nations. It was independent of both the Weimar Republic (Germany) and the Second Polish Republic (which was established in the final stages of WWI).

Also established in the Treaty of Versailles was an extra-territorial Polish Post Office inside the Free City of Danzig.

In the years between WWI and WWII, Danzig aligned itself closer and closer with Germany, with many of the members of the city administration aligning with the Nazi Party. 

Tensions started to grow between Poland and Germany in early 1939, and in April the Polish High Command assigned a combat engineer to the Post Office to prepare to defend the building.

September 1st 1939, Germany's invasion of Poland started, kicking off WWII. At around 4:45 in the morning, one of Germany's battleships began shelling the Poland controlled port of Danzig. The police and military force of Danzig, bolstered by the Germans, surrounded and attacked the Polish Post Office.

The original Polish plan was for the personnel within the Post Office to defend it for around 6 hours while waiting for reinforcement by the Pomeranian Army. Yes, that was a real thing, and no, it didn't involve fluffy little dogs.

Unfortunately, the Pomeranian Army found themselves otherwise engaged, having their asses handed to them in the Battle of Tuchola Forest. Finding themselves quickly outgunned and outmanned by the coordinated might of the Germans, the Pomeranian Army wasn't in a position to reinforce anyone. In the Battle of Tuchola Forest alone, the Pomeranian Army lost a third of their personnel.

Back at the Post Office, the defenders were able to hold off the Danzig Militia and the Germans for 15 hours.

All of the 56 people in the building (including the building caretaker, his wife, and their 10 year old daughter) either were summarily executed, or died as a result of their injuries sustained during the battle. 

The defenders of the Post Office are rightfully hailed as heroes in a "David & Goliath" story, holding the building against  the SS of the city of Danzig, local Brownshirts, uniformed German police, and special units of the Danzig police force.

There's a touching memorial on the wall behind the Post Office, with handprints permanently memorialized against the wall (where they lined them all up), including a set at a lower level for the 10 year old girl.

A picture taken for posterity's sake,
after the capture of the defenders in 1939

The adults' handprint memorial

The child handprints -
you can the the first set of adult handprints above and to the left

Gdańsk (or Danzig, depending on your nationality) dates back to the Bronze Age, and it's been a major port on the eastern end of the Baltic Sea for all of that time. While the modern port facilities have been moved closer to the sea, some of the old buildings have been rebuilt and repurposed. We had lunch (and warmed up a bit) in a food hall that has been built in an old granary building. Across the harbor, you can see the crane that they used to use to load and unload cargo; interestingly enough, our tour guide showed us how the crane was "powered." We walked underneath it, and were able to see two giant hamster wheels above us, about 15 feet across. Workers would climb into the wheels and their motion inside the wheels would power the crane. 

On the way back to the hotel, we popped into some random shops and walked through the indoor area of the market again. After we warmed up in the room for a while, we went to the craft beer place next to the hotel for a drink, but nothing else that day.

We had a slow morning the next day, I popped out and bought a shirt. We eventually checked out of the hotel and walked back over to the station. Right outside the station is a memorial/monument to the Kindertransport program... that's important enough to take a break and talk about.

Evidently, pretty much everyone in Europe knew that war was coming - the only question was when.

Five days after Kristallnacht, a delegation of British, Jewish, and Quaker leaders appealed in person to Prime Minister Neville Chamberlain to permit the temporary admission of unaccompanied Jewish children to England.

A bill was passed in Parliament which would wave immigration requirements, so that unaccompanied children from infant to the age of 17 could be admitted to the country.

Agencies on both ends of the journey coordinated the shipping of over 10,000 unaccompanied children from (mostly) Germany, Austria, Czechoslovakia, and Danzig. There are monuments located in several different locations throughout Europe.

You may have heard of one of the most widely known volunteers, Sir Nicholas Winton, who worked tirelessly to help secure the transport and safety of 669 children from Czechoslovakia in 1938 and 1939. Here's a link to a video that tells his story in two quick minutes.

The family film critic has also asked me to share with you that a movie was released in 2023 about his story, called "One Life." We'd also highly recommend that one if you've got any interest.  

For this next part, I'm gonna let my better half take over the narrative:

We each got food for the 4 hour journey and Rick went outside to vape one last time. It was getting closer to our train time, so I gathered all our luggage and waited at the escalator so we could go straight from there to save time, our train was arriving at 12:19 and departing at 12:22. I started getting nervous as the minutes went by when I get text from him at 12:13 “Oh shit. Getting ticket. Paying cash”.

I dragged all our stuff out the front door of the train station to see Rick at a police car with another individual. I head for him thinking he’d need his passport or something. He is talking with the cop in the car when I tell him to ask if we are going to miss our train that leaves in 7 minutes? The cop tells him he’ll go as fast as he can. I tell Rick I’ll head for the platform with our stuff just in case we can still make it.

Rick caught up to me before I made it to the platform, so thankfully writing a citation here is quick. Made it to the platform on time!

Then more fun, where to stand on the platform? In Frankfurt they project where the car numbers will line up with a section of the platform, they don’t do that here in Poland. Well, we ended up loading at the complete opposite end of the train. We got to be the tourist to go through almost every car to get to our reserved private cabin. Finally in our seats and ready for a drink now! Some days you just can’t make up the stories, from a relaxed pace morning, a 180 to we almost missed our train moment. Good times!

Back to your normally scheduled narrator now. The ticket was for smoking/vaping in a smoke free area. I had seen the sign out in front of the building, so I went to the side of building instead. I even asked the cop about it, as I'd done a bit of research, and I was quite a bit more than 8 meters away from the nearest door or window (as quoted in what I'd read), but that evidently didn't make any difference. The cop actually gave me a break since I was a tourist (and I was compliant and respectful). The fine was supposed to be up to 500 Polish Zloty (about $135), but I guess the officers have got some leeway, and he knocked it down to 50 for me (about $13.50).

I've got more to post, but this one's already gotten pretty long, so I'll post the second half of our trip as Part II in a few days.

Lufthansa.... SURPRISE!

 What a trip!

So frequent readers of this space might remember the boss's solo trip to Nice, France on Lufthansa Surprise. There are a few different categories ("Worth Seeing","Follow the Sun","The Great Outdoors" and a few others) - you select the category, and it gives you a list of 8-12 different destinations that you could end up with, for a reasonably low price. Once you've chosen the category, you can remove specific cities from the list of possibilities, but your price increases a bit, so it's a tradeoff.

We chose one of the categories which gave us a few different possibilities. I can't find the original list of cities that we were offered, but we specifically removed a couple that we'd already visited. Lufthansa ended up selecting Budapest for us - it had been on our list for a while, but we just hadn't made it there yet.

Airfare is the only thing that's covered, so we had to find our own hotel. Luckily, there's a Marriott smack dab in the middle of downtown. Luckily (again), the boss's status with Marriott gave her the opportunity to request an upgraded room. More about that in a moment though.

This is the second time the boss has done this, and both times the flight that she got booked on was a pretty late flight. Our flight didn't leave Frankfurt until after 9, and after riding the airport shuttle bus into town, we didn't get to our hotel until after midnight. 

Her upgrade was accepted, and they put us in a suite. Basically one of the normal hotel rooms with an additional (separate) sitting/dining room attached. Oh yeah, it was a corner suite with a balcony. Overlooking the Danube river. We didn't get to bed until really late, just sitting outside taking pictures of the riverfront.

When we visit a new place, we typically find a free walking tour. The tour we chose this time met at 10:00 and toured the downtown area. Y'all are reading this, so I'm assuming that you want to know what we learned. Our tour met at a statue of Sissi, whom you may (or may not) remember mention of during previous trips where I wrote about those pesky Habsburgs (or Hapsburgs, depending on what spelling you choose) from the Austria-Hungarian Empire.

Let me break from the narrative for a moment to get a little bit into the weeds - I need to share this to bring one specific detail into focus - please bear with me!

Languages are grouped into "families." You may have heard of a family of languages called "Romance Languages," like Italian, French and Spanish, or "Germanic Languages," which include German, English, Dutch, and most Scandinavian languages. These families are all part of the larger family of languages called "Indo-European Languages."

The settlement of Hungary in historic (and prehistoric) times came from nomadic tribes from the east, around the Ural Mountains in Asia. As such, the Hungarian language isn't related to any of the Indo-European languages. Hungarian is from the Uralic Family of languages, not related to Indo-European languages at all. Keep that in mind as we move back into our story.

Empress Elizabeth of Austria ("Sissi") was so enamored with Hungary and the Hungarian people that she learned the language. This marked a stark difference from most of the other outside rulers of Hungary, and the Hungarian people embraced her for it. 

I've gotta be honest with y'all - this trip was pretty last minute, and the only real touristy thing that we did (other than wandering around stimulating the economy) was the walking tour. The boss toured the Jewish Synagogue, but as far as the castles and churches? We didn't go inside any of them, so I won't be able to share much with you.

One interesting site that we did stop at on the tour: The Memorial for Victims of the German Occupation. Our guide pointed it out to us, and told us a bit about it. Evidently, it's quite controversial, as (critics say) it deflects any responsibility for the Holocaust by suggesting that Hungarians were all victims, and refusing to acknowledge that the government of Hungary was complicit in the atrocities. As such, there are displays in front of the memorial, set up by organizations or individuals, presenting the contrasting viewpoint.

In the same park, there's a monument to the Soviet Army, liberating Hungary from the Nazi occupation. Hungarians also find this a bit problematic, since (as I mentioned above) Hungary was a willing member of the Axis powers during the war, and then the Hungarians were fairly miserable during their time behind the Iron Curtain. The monument to the Soviet Army is in the square that faces the American Embassy, and is flanked by life sized statues of Ronald Reagan and George HW Bush (almost like a thumb in the eye of the Soviets, huh?).

Complicated city. 

Our tour ended right outside the Parliament building, we stopped at a cafe and shared a langos. What's a langos? Glad you asked! It's a fried slab of dough with toppings. A little similar to a pizza crust, but fried instead of baked. We ordered a traditional one, topped with a sour cream style sauce and grated cheese... and now I've gotta find some place in Frankfurt that sells these things. The sell them at fairs and Christmas Markets, but we've gotta be able to get them year-round!

The tour ended a few blocks away from the hotel, so we headed back...  when we'd left the hotel, it was a bit chilly, and I (stupidly) wore pants. By the time the tour was over, I was regretting my clothing choice, and I really needed to change into shorts - I don't know what I was thinking in the first place.

On the way back to the hotel though, we encountered the Shoes on the Danube Bank. This is an art installation of 60 bronze pairs of period appropriate shoes, on the bank of Pest. In December of 1944 and January of 1945, members of the Hungarian Arrow Cross Party took around 20,000 Hungarian Jews from the nearby ghetto and had them stand on the riverbank. They were forced to remove their shoes (as shoes were valuable and could be could be stolen and resold by the militia), then were systematically executed, their bodies falling into the Danube River.

Even in the most charming European cities and towns, the atrocities of World War II are never far away.

I was overheated (pants, remember?) so I wanted to walk back along the street, rather than on the banks of the river (which was in direct sunlight), so we split up, planning to meet at the hotel shortly. On the way back though, I encountered an amphibious bus. 

Most people are familiar with "ducks," those bus like rolling boats in tourist cities that are on a river... this was similar, but an actual bus instead of a repurposed WWII landing craft. When we met back up at the hotel, the boss mentioned that she might want to check out some of the boats along the river - so I told her about the amphibious bus. We looked at tickets, and we could take a tour of the city for a reasonable price, followed by a cruise on the river that afternoon, so we booked tickets online.

We just hung out at the hotel (cooling off) for a couple of hours until it was time to walk over.

Our bus tour took us through a couple of parts of the city that we'd already seen, and the audio track spouted tourist information at us as we wound our way over to the road that led into the river. We cruised up one side and back down the other side, then drove back up the same road and stopped at the same place we'd gotten on. Bit of a novelty, but nothing special to share about it.

The langos was ancient history at that point, so we needed to eat something. We'd passed a tapas restaurant during our walking tour, so we headed downtown. Turns out, there was some mechanical issue at the tapas restaurant, and the repairman wasn't going to be there for another hour or so... so we asked the guy working there where we should eat. He gave us the name of an "authentic" Hungarian restaurant, so we wandered over there.

I had a bowl of goulash, the boss had stuffed cabbage. Pretty good. The name of the place was Rézkakas Bistro, in case you find yourself in Budapest!

The night was still fairly young at this point (I think it was around 7:00pm), so we wanted to check out something that Budapest is (evidently) known for: Ruin Bars.

Back in the late 90s and early 00s (after the fall of the Iron Curtain), parts of the Jewish Ghetto were decrepit and abandoned, and four friends had the idea of turning one of the abandoned buildings into a meeting place for the locals. They didn't fix the buildings or anything, they just started hanging out there. These are literally just apartment buildings that are almost falling down, filled with people drinking and gently swaying to some sort of electronic music. At least, that's what was happening at 7:00 on that night. I'm assuming that the scene livens up a bit once the old farts leave.

Quick note: I have absolutely no idea about how or why the government of Budapest allows all of this - I'm just relating what I saw, and what I've been able to figure out online.

Now, there's a couple of blocks that's internationally pretty well known as THE party area of Budapest. The Ruin Bars are generally open for 12 hours a day, from 6pm to 6am. You can see for yourself in the video below that the whole place is just wild.

The next morning, we had decided to explore Buda.

I'll break here and talk about the geography of Budapest (since I haven't mentioned it up till now!). Budapest is the capital of Hungary, and the tenth largest city in Europe - just counting the cities themselves, not the metropolitan areas. Budapest sits astride the Danube River, the second longest river in Europe. The Danube begins in the Black Forest in Germany and travels through nine additional countries and four world capitals before emptying into the Black Sea. At one point, the Danube was the frontier for the Roman Empire. In 1992, the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal was completed, linking the Danube with the Rhine River, and creating a pathway from Rotterdam (with its access to the North Sea and Atlantic Ocean) to the Black Sea. Over 100 million tons of goods are transported annually on the Danube.

With Budapest's location in the Carpathian Basin, the location has been strategically important for centuries, and was the site of three different settlements: Buda, Pest, and Óbuda before they were combined and unified into Budapest in 1873. The area was pillaged by Mongols a few different times, and for a time was the co-capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. 

The locations of Buda and Pest on opposite sides of the river are still referred to today, although I discovered an interesting phenomenon regarding the pronunciation of the cities: When speaking with native Hungarians, Pest by itself is always pronounced "Pest," but about half the time, the pronunciation changes when they say the full name of the city. Some Hungarians say "Budapest," while some say "Budapesht" - I found that interesting, but your mileage may vary.

All of our exploration thus far had been on the east side of the river (in Pest), so we decided to visit Buda (almost universally pronounced "Buddha" as in Zen rather than with an 'eau' sound as in "beautiful") and the majestic Castle Hill. Legend says that the town of Buda was originally named after Bleda, the brother of Atilla the Hun. 

To cross the river, we had originally planned on taking a bus over, but it was a nice morning, so we decided to walk across, on the Széchenyi Chain Bridge. The bridge was designed by an English engineer, as a larger version of a bridge crossing the Thames River (about 30 miles outside of London). The bridge is quite picturesque, as you'll see in the pictures below (one from that morning, and one from the first night we were there). One thing I'd like to call your attention to... the top picture shows the Chain Bridge, and flying on the bridge, you'll see the Hungarian flag, red, white, and green stripes (from top to bottom). Take a close look at the flag in the foreground of the first picture, and you'll see a big hole in the middle of it.

In 1949, when the Communists took over, they changed the flag and put the Communist red star in the middle of the flag, in the middle of a symbol containing sheaves of wheat, a hammer and a sword.

During the anti-Soviet uprising in 1956, revolutionaries cut the symbol out of the middle, making the point that the flag with the symbol in the middle didn't represent the Hungarian people. On special occasions, defaced flags are flown... but I haven't been able to determine what special occasion the flags were flying for while we were there.

(In my research for this section, I encountered a wonderful site that covers the anti-Soviet uprising - if you're interested in reading up on the revolution, this would be a great place to start: https://www.freedomfirst1956.com/)

The hill on the western side of the Danube contains the Royal Palace and Matthias Church, looking out over the scenic Danube. On the edge of the hill underneath Matthias Church is Fisherman's Bastion, a well known historical site. Fisherman's Bastion was so named for two reasons: the fishermen set up their markets there to sell their wares, and they were fiercely loyal to the city, using this site to defend the city during siege. Now, it's just a promontory that overlooks the river below.

The church wasn't open for tours, so we skipped that and just explored the area on top of the hill, stopping at a convenient biergarten to share a focaccia and a couple of beers.

We caught a bus back down the hill and headed back over into town, splitting up at that point. The boss wanted to tour the synagogue - I'll post pictures below, but I've got nothing to tell you about that except that it's the largest synagogue in Europe, and either the second or third largest synagogue in the world, depending on what you're measuring. Afterward, she toured St. Stephen's Basilica - I'll throw in some pics of that too. If you want any more information about the synagogue or the church, you'll have to ask her... but here are the pics she sent me:

Me, though... I headed back over to the Ruin Bars. The same bar that we'd visited the previous night hosts a Farmer's Market on Sunday mornings - and y'all know how I love me a Farmer's Market! Plus, this gave me an opportunity to really look around the building, without having my eardrums attacked by EDM. After seeing it in the light of day, I'm even more amazed that the building hasn't been condemned; more likely, it actually has, but that just doesn't stop people from gathering there drinking. These pics were all taken the morning of the Farmer's Market - these spaces were all filled with middle-aged people drinking while we were there. I assume these rooms were jam packed later in the night (after we left) though.

I stopped at a grocery store on the way back to the hotel to get some paprika; Hungary is known for it, but I didn't want to pay tourist prices... and I figured if it's good enough for the locals, it's good enough for me!

We had a bit of a low-key day. We went out to get some souvenirs and for me to look for a poster for my collection. I didn't find one in the same size and format that I've already been collecting, but I saw I can get them online, so I didn't stress too much about it.

We had dinner in the lounge (thank you, Marriott!), and watched the Packers lose to the Panthers on my phone that night, before heading to the airport (and home) the next morning.

Watch this space for Christmas Market updates starting in just a couple of weeks!